Progress...

Welcome to the backup plan. I can't see any way I'm going to get all the metalwork done on the Mustang in time for Hallet in the fall. Not to mention that the new rear axle requires a new drive shaft, and it wouldn't make sense to build a new drive shaft for a temporary transmission. Oh, and 14" performance tire are almost impossible to find and stupid expensive, especially given the temporary rims.
So now what?
I have a complete but non running XJS. Its only significant rust issue are the floor pans. I now have a bead roller.
It needs new bushings all around, but poly bushing kits are available.
There are a selection of performance tires for the 15" wheels.
If the engine and transmission are in decent shape it could be in running order faster and cheaper than the Mustang.
If. 
http://xj-sprehe.blogspot.com/

Ugh.

I guess you can consider it a lap joint. Wouldn't have needed nearly so much bondo if they had stepped the panel's edge.

 That's not good. Directly over the leaf spring shackle.

 Oh yea, it looks the same inside and under neath too!

 Formerly known as front floor pan.

Shoot me now.
The only bit of bright lining is that all of the panels that are mangled, rusted through, or hacked up are the panels that are different between a fastback and coupe. I'm considering doing a very bad, bad thing.

Stripped to the frame.

More of the same.












Bondo depth test. I have a lot of work ahead.

A fully stripped frame. No bolts, brackets, lines, wires, just welded sheet metal... excluding the rust, bondo, and fiberglass.

Rocker panels without trim clips.











Those better acquainted with Mustangs will notice the dash looks odd. I drilled out the spot welds and removed the dash pad extension/support. Underneath there's a nice smooth rounded dash. It will end up painted flat black.

Hallett!!!

Hallett is a nice 1.8 mile 10 turn road course in Oklahoma. It has 80 feet of elevation change and is considered Technically Difficult. It has wide, grassy run-off areas and zero concrete or Armco barriers. Hallett is unique in that it can be run in either clockwise or counter-clockwise directions ­ making it two completely different race courses.


Hallett also has a nearly monthly open track day for street cars. I'm trying to get the mustang ready for a late spring or early fall run, dragging along a few friends with a '71 Datsun 240Z and a modified 1959 Jaguar Mark II, perhaps even a V12 XJ-S.


My plan is to continue breaking down the mustang to Shelby R model specs. Anything that doesn't help accelerate, brake, turn, or make the car road legal is dead weight and comes off. I won't have the finances to get a 5 speed by then, so the 3 speed will be pushed into service. It's plenty strong enough, just far from ideal. I should be able to manage the 8.8 swap, and really need to for the braking improvement. The old mustang drums will handle exactly two(2) back to back 0-60 stop then brake fade is so severe it would amount to having front brakes only. I will relocate the battery and fuel pump to the rear for space and weight distribution reasons. Additional brake cooling, very good brake fluid, and track capable pads are imperative. 

More disassembll - under dash.

More and more parts being pulled out. Wiring harness, glove box, heater, wiper motor, instrument panel, ventilation ducts, speakers, radio, steering wheel and column, pedals and pedal box all out.
I have the front suspension, steering box and linkages, engine, transmission, drive shaft, fuel lines, brake lines and exhaust left. Then the metal work starts.

New V6 Mustang, the perfect car?

http://www.ford.com/cars/mustang/
305 Horsepower.
31 Miles per gallon.
0 to 60 in 5.1 seconds and the quarter mile in 13.7 at 102.0 mph
$22,000.
The perfect daily driver?
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupes/112_1003_2011_ford_mustang_v_6_test/viewall.html

Spark?

How do you get good spark for a 289? A MSD system, for example, means a controller, coil, and distributor, and about $565. Much better than stock.
Or for about the same, you can get Ford EDIS (Electronic distributorless ignition system) and most of the parts for aftermarket EFI.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=EDIS
http://www.fintechcommunications.com/funstuff/
http://brickspeed.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=453

Sally

Air Pressure Test

Progess and setback 9/25/11

 Taillight reflectors are bright due to shiny side out aluminum foil. Lots easier than polishing the housings.

 Left rear collision damage.

 Crap. Right rear too, I had forgotten.

 Gas tank out, no floor!

 Rust. Crap.

 Rust bubbles that I knew about.

 Fiberglass "repairs" that I didn't.

Looks like a whole new roof may be the solution.

Progress 9/24/11 teardown

 Trunk lid gone.

 Hood gone.

 A little test, weighing items as I pull them.

 Valence, gill gone.

 Fenders gone.

 Doors gone.

 Seats, carpet gone.

 Hmmm, lotsa rivets.

Windshield gone.

Aluminum/Aluminium

I've been thinking about aluminum a lot lately. 1/3 the weight of steel, but also apparently 1/3 the strength. But there are lots of places weight saving could be had. Hood, trunk lid, seat divider, fenders, valences, drive shaft, wheels, and so on. Wonder how much weight reduction is possible.

Drivetrain

Transmission will be a Ford racing T5Z.

Features:

* Heavy-duty "World Class" T-5 5-speed manual transmission with short-throw shifter
*Aluminum case. Only 75lbs assembled.
*Gear ratios of 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1.00, 0.63.
* 330 ft./lbs. torque capacity
* Double-moly 2nd speed, 3rd speed and countershaft cluster gears
* Carbon-fiber 3-4 blocker rings
* Improved synchronizers and bearings
* 1-1/16 in. diameter 10-tooth input spline
* 28-tooth output spline
* 7-tooth speedometer drive gear
* Cobra-style pocket bearing

 The only downside is the deep 0.63 overdrive combined with 3.73 axle gearing could leave my high strung engine sputtering at less than 2200 rpm if you shift into top gear before 70MPH.  4.10 gears would bump me just over 2400 RPM at 70MPH, a much happier cruise for my combination. The added acceleration is purely a coincidence.

Paint

I'm thinking Silver with dark grey(anthracite) stripes to match the torq thrust  wheels.

More power!

Ram air setup from inside the corral.
Windage tray.
NOS?

Metal work and weight distribution.

#1 - #10 rust repair. No fiberglass or bondo over gaping holes. All metal.
Shaved drip rails and door handles.
Subframe connectors.
R model apron to replace valence and bumper.
Battery relocated to trunk.
Engine setback - as far as possible.

Mustangs have horrible understeer from the factory. You turn the wheel and they plow in a straight line until the tires scrub off enough speed to catch and begin turning the car. The solution is better front suspension and geometry, and reducing the 56/44 front weight bias.

There is no such thing as too much horsepower, there's just not enough traction!!!

Wheels will be American racing Torque Thrust D, 16x8 because they are gorgeous. Although I have been thinking about 18x10 after looking at Maiers blue mustang.

Tires, something like Dunlop SP in 225/50R16. Or 275/35R18. Damn you Maier!

As the friction elements of the 8.8 are worn out, I can either rebuild them or replace them. The stock Ford traction lock is not known for longevity. A Detroit truetrak is.

Carburetor?

I have a 600CFM Holley double pumper.

Cooling

The stock mustang radiator is 17" wide and 16.5" tall. It's adequate for street use if everything is in perfect working order. In the GT350R(race model - back when they actually were raced not just a sales gimmick) the radiator support was trimmed several inches along each side to allow a wider radiator, and the R model apron was added and bumper deleted to maximize cooling. I'll be doing the same. As it happens a 68-70 big block radiator fits very well after that modification. Oil cooler and hood pins? Yes, please.

I think I will be using an electric fan with thermostatic relay. Clutch fans are great, but I hope to set the engine back several inches to improve weight distribution.

Rear suspension

I think the rear suspension will be 4 1/2 leaf springs, del-a-lum bushings, and bilstein mustang shocks.


Del-A-Lum bushings eliminate the bind and play in rubber bushings. They also won't deflect making the leaf springs act as their own anti-sway bar.





4.5 leaf springs are as stiff in the front half as a 5 leaf, and as "soft" in the rear half as a 4 leaf, giving a nice ride(if you like firm suspensions) while eliminating wheel hop.

Bilstein is now making a sport shock specifically valved for classic mustangs. I'm told they are the best street shock available, and not half bad on track either.