Spark?

How do you get good spark for a 289? A MSD system, for example, means a controller, coil, and distributor, and about $565. Much better than stock.
Or for about the same, you can get Ford EDIS (Electronic distributorless ignition system) and most of the parts for aftermarket EFI.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=EDIS
http://www.fintechcommunications.com/funstuff/
http://brickspeed.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=453

Sally

Air Pressure Test

Progess and setback 9/25/11

 Taillight reflectors are bright due to shiny side out aluminum foil. Lots easier than polishing the housings.

 Left rear collision damage.

 Crap. Right rear too, I had forgotten.

 Gas tank out, no floor!

 Rust. Crap.

 Rust bubbles that I knew about.

 Fiberglass "repairs" that I didn't.

Looks like a whole new roof may be the solution.

Progress 9/24/11 teardown

 Trunk lid gone.

 Hood gone.

 A little test, weighing items as I pull them.

 Valence, gill gone.

 Fenders gone.

 Doors gone.

 Seats, carpet gone.

 Hmmm, lotsa rivets.

Windshield gone.

Aluminum/Aluminium

I've been thinking about aluminum a lot lately. 1/3 the weight of steel, but also apparently 1/3 the strength. But there are lots of places weight saving could be had. Hood, trunk lid, seat divider, fenders, valences, drive shaft, wheels, and so on. Wonder how much weight reduction is possible.

Drivetrain

Transmission will be a Ford racing T5Z.

Features:

* Heavy-duty "World Class" T-5 5-speed manual transmission with short-throw shifter
*Aluminum case. Only 75lbs assembled.
*Gear ratios of 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1.00, 0.63.
* 330 ft./lbs. torque capacity
* Double-moly 2nd speed, 3rd speed and countershaft cluster gears
* Carbon-fiber 3-4 blocker rings
* Improved synchronizers and bearings
* 1-1/16 in. diameter 10-tooth input spline
* 28-tooth output spline
* 7-tooth speedometer drive gear
* Cobra-style pocket bearing

 The only downside is the deep 0.63 overdrive combined with 3.73 axle gearing could leave my high strung engine sputtering at less than 2200 rpm if you shift into top gear before 70MPH.  4.10 gears would bump me just over 2400 RPM at 70MPH, a much happier cruise for my combination. The added acceleration is purely a coincidence.

Paint

I'm thinking Silver with dark grey(anthracite) stripes to match the torq thrust  wheels.

More power!

Ram air setup from inside the corral.
Windage tray.
NOS?

Metal work and weight distribution.

#1 - #10 rust repair. No fiberglass or bondo over gaping holes. All metal.
Shaved drip rails and door handles.
Subframe connectors.
R model apron to replace valence and bumper.
Battery relocated to trunk.
Engine setback - as far as possible.

Mustangs have horrible understeer from the factory. You turn the wheel and they plow in a straight line until the tires scrub off enough speed to catch and begin turning the car. The solution is better front suspension and geometry, and reducing the 56/44 front weight bias.

There is no such thing as too much horsepower, there's just not enough traction!!!

Wheels will be American racing Torque Thrust D, 16x8 because they are gorgeous. Although I have been thinking about 18x10 after looking at Maiers blue mustang.

Tires, something like Dunlop SP in 225/50R16. Or 275/35R18. Damn you Maier!

As the friction elements of the 8.8 are worn out, I can either rebuild them or replace them. The stock Ford traction lock is not known for longevity. A Detroit truetrak is.

Carburetor?

I have a 600CFM Holley double pumper.

Cooling

The stock mustang radiator is 17" wide and 16.5" tall. It's adequate for street use if everything is in perfect working order. In the GT350R(race model - back when they actually were raced not just a sales gimmick) the radiator support was trimmed several inches along each side to allow a wider radiator, and the R model apron was added and bumper deleted to maximize cooling. I'll be doing the same. As it happens a 68-70 big block radiator fits very well after that modification. Oil cooler and hood pins? Yes, please.

I think I will be using an electric fan with thermostatic relay. Clutch fans are great, but I hope to set the engine back several inches to improve weight distribution.

Rear suspension

I think the rear suspension will be 4 1/2 leaf springs, del-a-lum bushings, and bilstein mustang shocks.


Del-A-Lum bushings eliminate the bind and play in rubber bushings. They also won't deflect making the leaf springs act as their own anti-sway bar.





4.5 leaf springs are as stiff in the front half as a 5 leaf, and as "soft" in the rear half as a 4 leaf, giving a nice ride(if you like firm suspensions) while eliminating wheel hop.

Bilstein is now making a sport shock specifically valved for classic mustangs. I'm told they are the best street shock available, and not half bad on track either.

1999 explorer 8.8 rear axle

Why? $250 for a stronger housing, stronger 31 spline axles, stronger 3.73 gears, limited slip differential, and rear disc brakes with parking brakes. 9 inch axles similarly set up run $2500 from many catalogs. I will have to rebuild the LS ($150 or upgrade $450), shorten the housing and move the spring perches(+$125), and add a shorter left hand axle($40 used $115 new) Much cheaper and plenty for my 306.

Progress pictures 9/3/11 Disassembly

A few pictures at the start.

5.0 EFI?

I'm toying with the idea of sequential EFI from a 5.0 Mustang. Edelbrock has a very nice Pro Flo II unit, but $3200 is a lot.
The stock harness, sensors, computer, distributor, rails and parts of the fuel lines are capable of feeding a 400HP 302.
Other stock pieces would have to be replaced with 24-29lb injectors, 255lph fuel pump, 70mm throttle body, and 70mm MAF.
EFI intakes are expensive, and there are two of them, so maybe take a page from Edelbrock and get bungs installed on the 4V manifold? Also get a chip tune or Tweecer to correct calibration and fix the firing order.
Definitely longer and more difficult, but it might save the cost of new high performance upper and lower intakes, about $750 even on ebay. Maybe save another $500 by refurbishing the used parts... if they work from a junkyard.

Rust: there is no worse four letter word.

My Mustang is up on jack stands and slowly being dismantled. The roof, the floorboards and the cowl vents are succumbing to rust. There is collision damage from three separate incidents, probably, at the left front, left rear, and drivers door. Time to learn bodywork.
The engine is a rebuilt 302 .040 over for 306 cubic inches. The camshaft is a solid lifter Isky with duration of 240 @ .050 and lift of .512. Heads are World products Roush with 180cc intake runners.(IIRC) Performer RPM intake and 600cfm Holley double pumper top off the engine. Properly tuned over 350HP. It's not meant to idle smoothly.
Transmission will be a T5, rear axle will be a Ford 8.8 from a 99 Explorer. 31 splines, 3.73, detroit truetrak limited slip, and 4 wheel discs.
Interior should look classic, no A/C, maybe a rear package tray instead of seats.
I'm aiming for lower, sleeker, better handling and faster than stock.